Emerging Fervour

Mjölk was created by menswear designer and Denmark Designskole (DKDS) graduate Lars Stoten. Recenty the label has gone from strength to strength, mainly due to the move from Melbourne to New York, not to mention the fabulous designs.

Of the SS11 collection below, Stoten has balanced this collection with vibrant shades coupled with romantic patterns. The cuts are fitted with some boxy cuts and oversized pieces that make this collection a pretty distinctive one. Not only are the clothes beautifully designed, but the footwear is the icing on the cake with a series of hand-cobbled Italian made footwear.

Photography by Russ and Reyn. To find out more, check out the website for more details www.mjolkhomme.com

Korean based fashion label D.GNAK by KANG.D was my second menswear show. This collection targets the hectic and stressed lives of a workaholic male. Inspiration was drawn from a slightly disheveled and overworked man. Small details like an untucked shirt, ties threaded through a lapel and drawstrings around the ankles give a more casual take on the classic workwear.

Bright lime green ties stood out among the neutral coloured shirts and suits and simple slip on shoes complemented the workaholic theme of the collection.

In a final play with the workaholic theme, all the models were in matching pajamas and bare feet for the final walk. The boys were ready to relax after a long day at work!

Photo Credits: Lucas Seidenfaden of The Fashion Scout and the Londonist

The Thomas Engel Hart line is something for the rebel rockstar at heart. Engel Hart uses a mix of traditional and innovative patternmaking techniques, rock references and a range of fabric and materials. Admittedly, we don’t write a lot about menswear, even though fashion is just as important to you fashionisto’s as it is to us. Shame on us, but we promise to write something for the boys more often.

Back to Engel Hart. Currently, he’s living and working in Paris but he was actually born in Manhattan, where he later went on to the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Take a peek at his latest AW10 collection:

Check out the Thomas Engel Hart website. In the UK, pieces are available at London’s Dover Street Market and also in Japan and the US (details on website).

We’re all for African prints over here at Emerging Fervour…from my piece on Senegalese prints, to Gold Coast Trading…ethnic prints are back!

Ohema Ohene, translated ‘Queen and King’ in Ghanaian, is the brainchild of Abenaa Pokuaa, a London-based fashion designer. She’s only been trading for just over a year, but her sparkle hasn’t gone unrecognised. Nominated for an O2X Award in the ‘Young Entrepreneur of the Year’ category in October 2009 as well as scooping up the accolade for ‘Start-Up Business of the Year’ at the Precious Awards in London the following month of November 2009.

Check out Ohema Ohene’s limited edition Batik pumps, using African Batik print fabric from a sustainable source.

OH NANA ∨

OH KOFI ∨

Batik wax prints originated from West Africa and have heavily featured on the catwalks, both here in London and New York Fashion week. The concept behind the footwear was to produce an innovate wearable product which was both beautiful and ethical. Ohema Ohene’s classic pump was created using the off cuts and remaining fabric from the production of their clothing line, which used Batik fabric that had been reclaimed and recycled.

The brand has also since gone onto launch its debut MENSWEAR AW10 collection titled ‘Voyage’. Fine cotton blend sweaters, cardigans, polo shirts and hooded tops using detailed techniques, from batik trims along with nautical themed embellishments, fastenings, collars, panels and sleeves make this collection pop in all the right places.

AW10 Menswear Collection – ‘Voyage’ ∨

We’re trying to cover more menswear designers and I came across Duckie Brown a few weeks ago and had to write about the label. Steven Cox and Daniel Silver are the duo behind the Duckie Brown label. Cox is a former designer at Tommy Hilfiger; Silver is a former TV producer.

I just love the light and floaty but masculine pieces; casual or smart these models look super hot on the runway of Duckie Brown’s SS10 collection.

Check out the footwear…I absolutely love them! Back in 2008, Florsheim, a century old American footwear brand, and Duckie Brown teamed up to create Florsheim by Duckie Brown. This pairing is symbolic of Florsheim’s return to the forefront of the footwear industry and it pays homage to classic Americana. Think The Talented Mr Ripley.

For Duckie Brown enquiries, contact fred@duckiebrown.com or for Florsheim, email Danny.Livingston@florsheim.com

We’ve covered Beekay before, our favourite Menswear designer from LFW. I met up with him for an interview and a couple of drinks after AW10 to get his thoughts…

Tell us a little about Beekay, who is the guy behind the designer?

I always wanted to be an artist as a kid. Found a way through garments and sketching to bring my creativity out. I’m a dreamer & always looking at a way to make them a reality.

I remember you mentioned that when I saw you at ON|OFF in Feb…How did you find LFW this season?

This season was interesting in a way that a lot of designers came out with collections which you really didn’t expect from them. For me, it was the first time I exhibited/presented with Vauxhall fashion scout. It was a good experience & went pretty good.

Tell us a little about your AW10 collection.

It was inspired by circular shapes & twisted tree branches.

What are your plans for the rest of the year?

Entering different fashion competitions & working on my new collection.

So have you started thinking about your SS10 plans? Tell us!

Everyone is gearing up for this month’s London Fashion Week. The designers are making the finishing touches to their collection, the exhibitors are making sure they have enough marketing material and business cards to hand out, the buyers are finalising their ‘who to see’ plan and the bloggers are scheduling their weeks in the run up to, through and past fashion week.

With so much to cover your first port of call must be exploring the designer exhibitions at Somerset House and the ON|OFF Section at Victoria House. Back in September, we covered BodyAmr, Kron by KronKron, Beekay, Beautiful Soul, Rachael Cassar, Rocio Bags and a few others from the exhibitions and this season we’re planning on covering a lot more!

19TH – 23RD FEB EMERGING DESIGNERS EXHIBITIONS FROM SOMERSET HOUSE ∨

AND ON|OFF 19TH – 22ND FEB∨

You can also check out all the things to do in between shows with the London Fashion Week City Guide A/W 10. In fact, LFW along with Red Maps have provided us with maps that are available on site, you can also open a pdf and print it out, just visit the map page on the LFW site.

VOGUE have partnered up with designers, department stores, high-street chains and boutiques to create Fashion’s Night Out, an evening extravaganza to be held around the world, today from 6pm until midnight.

There will be original in-store activities, including personal appearances, makeovers and workshops, during extended shopping hours all over the West End in London.

You can find the full list of events and shops that joined on Vogue’s website but here are just a few to get you excited:

Agent Provocateur

Come and join them for a glass of Champagne and view our stunning new collection at participating London boutiques from 6.00pm to 10.00pm. Customers will receive a special gift bag with purchase. Be the first to see their long-awaited new campaign, – Agent Provocateur – The New World Order and look out for Harold and the mighty Agent Provocateur Love Force who will be handing out AP’s new illustrated novel on the night…

Yes, I’m getting excited about mens shoes – who wouldn’t with these beauties? These are all creations by the Corthay brothers who have been around since 1990. Actually, Pierre Corthay opened the Corthay workshop in Paris, setting up a contract with Lanvin for Corthay’s made to measure service. Christophe, Pierre’s younger brother joined the company in 1996. Both brothers are traditionally trained craftsmen who then went onto expand the business into the Corthay Bottier á Paris brand we see today.

For more information on ready to wear or made to measure shoes, which by the way are a favourite with the Sultan of Brunei who ordered 150 pairs of made to measure Corthay shoes, you can visit the site at corthay.fr or call them on +33 1 42 61 08 89.

We can’t, which is why we’re letting you know it’s nearly Sample Sale time!!

The London Accessory Sale is held in conjunction with the Secret Sample Sale and together they host one of London’s largest collections of designer accessories, ladies and menswear clothing.

Who’s there?
Jonathan Suanders, Serfontaine, Handwritten, Slacks and Co, British Identity, Brittinger, Raygun, Pyrus Japonica, Branting, Onjoo Mac, Hamish Morrow, Dubuc, Sophie Gorton, Missoni, Emilio De La Morena, John Smedley, Ed Hardy, Ciel, Jens Laugesen, Juicy Couture, Religion Clothing, Blitz Spirit, Makin Jan Ma, Karen Walker, Eley Kishimoto, Todd Lynn, Aei:Kei, Mandarina Duck, Elbo, Soochi, English Eccentrics, Helmut Lang, Rittenhouse, Stone Island, Ksubi, Pierre Henri, Mattout, Sarah Arnett, Paul and Joe, Martin Margiela, Gharani Strok, Antonio Berardi, Y3, See By Chloe, Cami Cuckoo, Seven, Duffer, Marion Thomas, Ruby Rocks, Pam, Yuchi, Schwipe, Metalicus, Milla, Amanda Wakely, Your Eyes Lie, Blank, Truly Sopel, Blue Blood, Onagono, Romeo Pires, Alexander McQueen, Melanka & Me, Britta Boyer, Diane Von Furstenberg, Zimmermann, Nicola De Main, Esther Franklin, Ghulam Sakina, Folk, Betty Jackson, Yes No Maybe, Wayne Cooper, Lagoa, Stella McCartney, Alchemist, Marc Jacobs, Humanoid, Katarzyna Szczotarska, Richard Nicoll, Nom D, Carolyn Massey, Rock + Republic, Alice McCall, Hunters & Gatherers, Eucalyptus, Yasue Carter, Lezley George, Oki Ni, Ziad Ghanem, Customers Own Property, Aloë Longewear, James Jeans, Justin Oh, Sugarhill, Elizabeth Lau, Vanessa Bruno, Reclaim, Nadia Minkoff, Prada, Bruno Pieters, Truffle, UACT, Motel, Rubecksen Yamanaka, Levis, Pink Soda, Nanso, Aimee McWilliams, Sophia Malig, Sara Berman, Stonewood+Bryce, Paul Smith, Cacharel, Bluestone, Margo London, Pia Hallstrom, John Rocha, Looking Glass, Shöfolk, Unconditional, Natalia Mcintosh, Belle & Bunty, Maria Grachvogel, Miu Miu, Madeleine Press, Vivienne Westwood, Costume National, Julia Clancey, Truffle.