Ada Zanditon

Ones to Watch: Anja Mlakar, Kirsty Ward, Sara Bro-Jorgensen, Tze Goh

Eudon Choi

Krystof Strozyna

Jasper Garvida (catwalk & backstage)

Elliot J.Freeze

Jacob Kimmie

Lako Bukia

Masha Ma

JazzKatze

Fashion Mode: Carlotte Actis Barone, Florian Jayet, James Hillman

A La Disposition

Bunmi Koko

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Season two for Bunmi Koko and the AW11 collection ‘Kaleidoscopia’ silhouette is true to its style – strong, powerful and feminine with soft draping and sculptural silhouettes. And the colours of course – my person favourite pretty much everything that had purple in it – yum, yum, yum!!

YUM!

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One word, STRIKING! This collection was one of the most fun and creative catwalks we’ve seen this season. Evelyn, our photographer, instantly fell in love with the orange trousers and probably another reason why we really liked it, the colours and fabrics are amazing! But let the pictures speak for themselves:

My favourite… it’s the wicked witch from the East

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The AW11 collection ‘The Name of the Rose ‘ is inspired by the novel written by the Italian medievalist Umberto Eco in the early 80′s. The story is an intellectual mystery with fantastic symbolism and cord playing, reflecting the paradoxical relationship of existence that is made by you and your memories.

Including this philosophical aspect, Jazzkatze plays with the images of a rose – a symbol that has the beauty of femininity in the flower petals and masculinity in the thorny stalk.

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Fashion Mode’s catwalks was a treat as we got 3 emerging designers in one hit!

Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone continues her innovative theme of combining protest about important ethical issues with striking designs that deliver her intended messages straight to the audience’s conscience. This season’s inspiration is formed from cruelty against animals, particularly the slaughter for fur, with a concentrated focus on seals. LOVE IT!

The climate these animals live in is expressed through the colour palette; navy blue for the cold sea, white for the snow and ice. The seals themselves are represented in beige faux fur, and the violence and cruelty inflicted in the slaughter is reflected in the red underskirts and showpieces

You can find more images of Carlotta Actis Barone’s catwalk on Flickr

Florian Jayet

Florian Jayet examinse the sculpted female figure in his autumn/winter 2011 collection, the focus being on creating “a fetish wardrobe…pieces that a woman can keep forever, bringing them out on special occasions when she needs to be propelled into confidence and strength”. This ‘strength’ is evidenced in the interior-padding element, protecting the woman as material armour against society.

As a graduate of Biology, Florian is heavily inspired by science and often links biological diagrams with fashion. This pairing of science and fashion is manifested in his current collection where the cream and black dresses project a graphic skeletal pattern and exterior stitching on leather items casts the impression of a ‘second skin’.

You can find more images of Florian Jayet’s catwalk on Flickr

James Hillman

James Hillman’s inspiration shifts from season to season and for autumn/winter 2011, James examines the intricate distillation process surrounding crude oil. yes, you read right, crude oil – I love it that inspiration can come from absolutely everything!!

James appreciates the importance crude oil has in our society and considers it a driving life source for the human race. He has projected this idea throughout his design process and the entire collection is black to reflect the natural colour of crude oil. Studying the distillation process of crude oil, James learned that different temperatures produce different iterations of oil. To demonstrate this, each fabric used represents a different tier in the crude oil process. For example, for the heavyweight oils, James used heavyweight woollen cashmere mixes and reindeer leather and the lightweight oils are represented in ripstop and lightweight wax cottons.

Mhhhh and this photo I just had to add because…. just look at them!!!

You can find more images of James Hillman’s catwalk on Flickr

Krystof Strozyna graduated in 2007 in Fashion Design Womenswear at Central Saint Martin’s and was invited to display his collection in Harrods as a second-place winner of the Harrods Design Award. His sharp tailoring, sculptural shapes and oversized, lacquered wood jewellery earned him the New Generation sponsorship for three consecutive seasons!

I loved his colour palette, the blues & orange, as there was a lot of beige, browns and black coming down the runway so a splash of colour always works for me – brightens up those cold and grey winter days.

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After debuting with her Icedbreaker collection last season, Masha continues to explore an architectural way of designing. This time mixing textures, heavy coats and adding a splash of black but keeping true to her light palette of the season. And not to forget those boots!!!! I kept thinking of the movie ‘the secretary‘, naughty!!

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Another anticipated catwalk as Jacob Kimmie has been one of our favourites. Not only amazing designs but also one of the nicest designers we’ve met.

As we were waiting for the show to begin, we had lovely models keeping us company – didn’t harm that they looked rather dishy, even if they seemed to wear nappies…

Jakob Kimmie’s latest collection is called Martyr alluding to neoclassicism and touches on gothic, sacred themes. Complex yet subtle pieces combine Kimmie’s genius in hi-art ritual dressing. And it couldn’t have shown at a better venue! Freemasons Hall suited this theme and when you walked in the church music playing, set the mood instantly.

And here comes the bride

And were were clearly not the only ones that loved the show:

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Lako Bukia is another designer which has gone from strength to strength and we’ve been following her ever since her debut a couple of seasons ago.

The AW11 collection ‘CHOXA’ is inspired by the Georgian National Ballet Men’s costume with the same name ‘choxa’. It features covetable dresses, shirts, skirts and leather trousers in a stunning palette of colours – loved it and especially the browns, wine red and pastel colours felt so sumptuous!

Just check out the boots! Lako Bukia always produces stunning ‘signature heel’ shoes with each collections and for this season also black leather, high boots – these are just amazing!

Mh, maybe a bit drafty for some of us… but the cut on this jumpsuit is amazing and one of our favourite pieces in this collection.

I’m so in love with these boots!!

And keeping the best to the end

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["Haute école "] the purest and advanced component of Classical Dressage; a highly refined set of skills seldom used in competition

Inspired by equestrian paraphernalia, clean sculptured lines and strong silhouettes are effortlessly individual. Mixed fabrications and luxurious panels of leather, Toscana fur and wool cashmere are offset by salient hardwear. It follows perfectly from the previous seasons collection and you can instantly see it’s Eudon Choi.

Choi uses sports influences of double lined jersey, a robust yet supple fabric found in horse riding kit. Saddlery is further referenced in a collaboration with London accessories label Jas M B. Harnesses and jewellery inspired by the S&M photography of Robert Mapplethorpe have been produced in the brand’s signature leathers restricting and accentuating the female form.

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