Emerging Fervour

We did a piece on Jeni Jaques and Harlow in Chains not too long ago; and we’ve gone one better and managed to get an interview with her. There are few designers who move me with their stories behind their reasons to become designers…Jeni Jaques from Harlow in Chains is one of the very few. Her anwers to my questions are filled with so much passion and love that she would even inspire Gordon Brown to become a jewellery designer. This lady is incredible…take a peek at our interview with her.

EF: Jeni, we absolutely love your style…what inspires you to create these big statement pieces?

Jeni Jaques: Thank you!! I’ve always loved art and creation in all forms: painting, illustration, sewing/fashion design & construction, writing, photography and in recent years constructing one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories… I’ve also always had a love for older vintage and antique items and have been collecting those since I was a young child. I love the history, mystery and sense of wonder that each and every piece holds: ‘What kind of woman wore this brooch?’; ‘Was this locket a gift from a loved one?’; ‘Did it hold a special meaning?’; ‘What journey has this piece followed to end up in my hands, to use in part to create an entirely new piece?’ It’s mysterious and slightly haunting; I love that…

I hate resorting to labels such as ‘artist’, ‘designer’, etc; but I suppose you can say that I’ve been a general ‘artist’ all my life. I’ve been creating for as long as I can remember; I did not come from a rich family so I started using everything and anything that wasn’t nailed down, and though I worked, I still didn’t have enough money to go out and purchase professional-grade art supplies so I used anything I could. I started young, around 11 or 12 years old: painting my shoes, tearing apart clothing and re-creating something new using what I already had, visiting thrift stores and vintage shops, buying the clothing and altering it to my taste – all the while, dragging my creative friends along with me and introducing them to the joys of vintage. As a teen, while my friends were all reading Teen Beat & Seventeen Magazine, I was reading Harper’s Bazaar & Vogue (Italian Vogue if I could get my hands on it). I always felt inspired by the freedom and artistic nature being portrayed by these heavily-saturated images of wearable art; all of the beauty and uniquity they imposed, held within the glossy pages of these foreign and brilliant magazines: they suggested, almost demanded freedom of personal expression; making a statement regarding who you are while utilizing something completely necessary and functional: clothing, shoes and accessories. I started altering anything I could to my liking and it went forward from there. I’ve also been heavily influenced by the goth/burlesque scene, as I was a part of that in my teen years… Glossy corsets, crinoline skirts, unbelievably high platform shoes, pink & teal dyed hair… it was all surreal and so much fun! I suppose the statement pieces are directly descendant of my love for that glamour, glitz and my constant desire for a unique and expressive look. I even made ‘most unique’ in my high school yearbook, lol! I always keep in mind Siouxsie Sioux, Diamanda Galas, Dita Von Teese, Vargas pin-ups… they all inspire me. The statement pieces can be worn in full regal to a swanky event, or with a t-shirt and jeans, while day-shopping. Many of my clients wear these pieces everywhere and layer them too!

Now we know what inspires, we’d love to know WHO inspires you…

Jeni Jaques:> I was definitely *inspired* by the 20’s & 30’s: Louise Brooks, Jean Harlow, Greta Garbo… Marlene Dietrich was a big one… I love the look of the past contrasted by an edgy, futuristic look. Anything edgy, artistic, unique…

I wouldn’t say I’ve been ‘inspired’ by the following designers/labels because all of my designs come together without referencing other designers collections, but I’d say some labels that I appreciate would be some of the more artsy, edgy labels such as Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Blumarine, Ziad Ghanem, Hussein Chalayan, Guilty Brotherhood, Renata Morales, Katie Gallagher, Ann Demeulemeester, Dennis Gagnon, Akiranaka, etc… I could go on & on as I adore fashion – both vintage and current!!

In my younger years it was more Vivienne Westwood, Edith Head,  Betsey Johnson, Chanel/Karl Lagerfeld & Christian Dior/John Galliano; I definitely LOVE the new ‘Plato’s Atlantis’ Collection by Alexander McQueen…what an amazing talent he is!

Did you find it difficult starting your label, Harlow in Chains, or has it been a smooth ride?

Jeni Jaques: Well, at first I didn’t even think I would start out doing jewelry for Harlow In Chains, however, in 2004 my grandmother passed and I was the last woman in the family to receive her boxes of jewelry…Now, mind you this is a woman who had worn heels and donned wigs to go out on the town with a gentleman friend and did this well into her 60s… so once I opened these boxes of what everyone else must have deemed ‘junk’ jewelry, I was in heaven! Vintage and antique brooches and chains galore – I was absolutely elated! Until I realized that there was no way that I could wear a brooch every day! I started tearing things apart and piecing them together in a way that felt wearable and relevant today… at first I reserved the pieces for myself, family and friends. Eventually, it became an obsession and all I did was work on this jewelry night & day; thus Harlow In Chains was born! As a working artist, I decided to switch gears and change my medium. I realized that I was able to combine my passions – being eco-conscious (just as my father raised me), also creative/artistic and within the realm of the fashion industry, I could create a line which was completely and totally ‘green’ – producing one-of-a-kind items for women using objects that had already been produced, therefore not lending to mass production. These items have amazing patinas, and they just don’t make ‘em like they used to! What woman doesn’t want something she knows no one else will have, ever??

As far as getting myself out there, I had NO idea what to do. I just went for it – posting photos and information about my pieces online everywhere, craigslist included, and then I realized that people started coming to me! I started building a private client base and soon after magazines followed, and Harlow has continued to rise!

What advice would you give to anyone starting their own label?

Jeni Jaques: Don’t be afraid; just do it! No one will notice you if you’re not putting yourself out there…do as many trunk shows, markets and online posts as possible. Contact the editors of magazines – they responded to me! After a while, if you maintain integrity, a high-quality product and are responsible when it comes down to servicing your client’s needs, you’ll only rise. Love what you do; channel your passion into a fierce hunt! Most importantly: DON’T let it get you down if this goes slowly or you’re rejected; learn from that and move forward. It will take some time, but it WILL happen… You simply have to do the work involved and make use of every free tool out there.

Lastly where do you see yourself in 5 years time?

Jeni Jaques: I see myself with a family, creating jewelry in my studio, along with my shoe line, bags, hairpieces/fascinators, cocktail hats, refinishing/re-vamping antique furniture and housing all of this within my own boutique. I hope to one day expand the boutiques into unique locations: Portland, Savannah, LA, Austin – featuring completely local and eco-friendly designers, alongside my designs. I believe in what I do, and I love it more than I can ever express with these words.

END.

www.harlowinchains.com

To contact Jeni, email her on jeni_jaques@hotmail.com or contact her on +1 631 8853132. You can also become her fan on Facebook - support this amazing designer!